The Turkish bath (hamam): a first-timer's guide

A visit to a hamam, the Turkish bath, is one of the most relaxing things you can do on a Turkish Riviera holiday. You lie on warm marble, an attendant scrubs you down with a rough mitt and then covers you in a mountain of soap foam, and afterwards you sit with a glass of tea feeling lighter than you have in months. Almost every big resort hotel has one, and the old towns of Antalya, Alanya and the Side area have traditional bathhouses too. This guide explains what happens step by step, how a hotel spa differs from a historic hamam, what to wear and how to book.

What happens in a hamam

Step by step

You change in a small cubicle and wrap yourself in a peştemal, a thin cotton cloth of checked or striped fabric, and slip on the sandals provided. From there you go into the warm, steamy main room, usually a domed hall of marble with basins along the walls. In the middle is the göbek taşı ("belly stone"), a large heated marble platform where you lie down and let the heat open your pores for ten to fifteen minutes, pouring warm water over yourself from a bowl now and then.

Then the attendant (tellak for men, natır for women) arrives for the kese: a firm scrub with a coarse mitt that removes dead skin, often in surprisingly visible quantities. Next comes the köpük, the foam massage: a cotton bag is dipped in soapy water and swung through the air until it billows, then squeezed out over you in a thick layer of foam and worked in with a gentle massage. A rinse with bowls of warm and cool water follows, and sometimes a hair wash.

Rest, tea and optional extras

Afterwards you are wrapped in dry towels and rest in the cooler outer room with a glass of tea, juice or water. Many hamams, especially in hotels, offer an oil massage as an extra, and packages may add a clay mask or a sauna. Overall a hamam visit typically takes 45 to 90 minutes, depending on the package and how long you linger; leave yourself time to relax rather than rushing back to the pool.

Hotel spa or historic hamam?

Hotel spa hamams

Nearly every larger resort hotel in Belek, Side, Lara, Kemer and Alanya has a hamam in its spa. It is the easy option: a few steps from your room, clean and modern, staff who speak English or German, and often a mixed hamam where couples can go together. The experience is designed for tourists, with set packages and booked time slots; it is comfortable rather than authentic.

Historic town hamams

The old towns have bathhouses that have been in use for centuries, for example in Kaleiçi, the old quarter of Antalya, in Alanya and in the Side and Manavgat area. Here the domed halls, the worn marble and the local regulars give a real sense of the tradition. In traditional hamams men and women bathe separately, either in separate sections or at different hours, so check the times before you go. Ideas for the old towns: Antalya city, Alanya and Side.

"Tourist hamam" packages

In the big resorts you will see offers for a Turkish bath trip with pick-up from your hotel, often combined with a sauna, foam massage and oil massage. These hamams are built for groups of holidaymakers and are usually mixed. They can be fun, especially if your hotel has no spa, but quality varies, so read recent reviews or ask your hotel. More excursion ideas: day trips.

Etiquette and tips

What to wear

You are given a peştemal to wrap around you. In hotel and tourist hamams a swimsuit underneath is perfectly normal, and in mixed hamams it is expected. In traditional hamams men keep the peştemal on at all times; women often wear swimwear bottoms or underwear. Bring a spare swimsuit or underwear for afterwards, as you will get soaked.

Before and during

Have a quick shower before you go in, and do not go straight after a big meal or after drinking alcohol. The heat is intense, so drink water before and afterwards and step out into the cooler room if you feel dizzy. Leave jewellery, watches and anything valuable in the hotel safe; at most bring a little cash and your room key.

If you are pregnant, have a heart condition, high or low blood pressure or any other health concern, ask your doctor before a hamam visit. The same goes for very hot rooms and strong massages in general. After a fresh sunburn it is better to wait until your skin has calmed down.

Children and tipping

Many hotel spas only admit children from a certain age, or only at set times; ask at the spa reception. For young children the heat and the vigorous scrub can be too much, and a gentle foam wash is usually the better idea. More tips for travelling with children: with kids.

Tipping the attendant is customary if you were happy, especially in historic hamams; a small amount handed over discreetly at the end is enough. In hotel spas a service charge is sometimes already included, so check your bill.

How much and how to book

Prices

Prices vary a lot. Hotel spas are usually the most expensive, especially with an added massage, while a historic hamam in town or a simple package elsewhere often costs less. Packages differ in what they include (scrub, foam, massage, sauna, transfer), so compare what you get rather than just the price. Ask for the current price before you book; to plan your holiday spending, try our holiday budget calculator.

Booking

For a hotel spa, book at the spa or your hotel reception, ideally a day ahead in high season. Historic hamams can usually be visited without booking, though a call ahead helps. Trips with pick-up can be booked at reception, through your tour operator or directly with the hamam. Be wary of aggressive touts on the street or beach offering "special prices": agree exactly what is included and the total price before you pay.